I heart AR: a blog by an Animal Righter

Disaster Preparedness for You and Your Companion Animals

In Disaster Preparedness on May 22, 2013 at 2:22 pm

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In light of the recent catastrophic events in Moore Oklahoma, it is a poignant reminder to all of us to prepare for disasters, no matter what form it takes. Here in the Pacific Northwest region, we are at risk for earthquake activity, owing to the many fault lines that run along the Pacific coastline, as well as effects of tsunamis. Many low-lying areas are also prone to flooding, and tornadoes–while rare in this region–are not out of the question. No matter what area of the country you live in, there are potentials for severe events, both natural and unnatural–there is no place in this country that is guaranteed 100% safe and insulated from something unfortunate happening; you may not get tornadoes but you may get wind-storms that can knock out power and block roads with downed trees for days; you may not get hurricanes but you may get flooded. We must take preparations to be able to survive on our own for a period of time, and ensure the survival of those who depend on us, such as our companion animals.

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After being lucky enough to survive an initial disaster, the infrastructure we depend on may not be functional; there may no longer be access to food or running water, electricity or shelter, so planning ahead for such contingencies increases your chance of surviving for a period of time in case rescue crews or relief supplies are not able to reach you for a few days. Especially after a substantially destructive event with widespread damage, help may not come for some time (after the Moore tornado, first-responders at first were not able to get into the affected neighborhoods because of the extensive amount of debris blocking roadways), so it is best to plan ahead; imagine taking a camping trip for a week and you’ll get some idea of what you’ll need. Speaking of camping, many of us in this region do so, so there is the added advantage of having those supplies and gear at our disposal. Failing that, you can compile such items now and it will serve the dual purpose of being available for that trip you’ve been wanting to take in the mountains.

It will take some time and money to compile these kits, but it is important to start now and add to it as time and money allows; every little bit you add will greatly improve your situation later should the unthinkable happen. We recommend compiling one go-kit for each member of your household, including special items for your companion animal(s), and stowing camping gear in your available vehicles. There are special items you can compile for the home, but be aware that after a flood, earthquake, or tornado, your residence may be compromised enough to be unsafe for habitation, if it is left standing at all.

Vegans will have to ensure that there is enough food stocked up and packed away. Relief supplies, once they come, may not be all vegan, so having enough food for at least 7 days is recommended. Energy bars are convenient, especially in the Go-Kits, but they are expensive. Better to stock up at home on canned soups, beans and vegetables, dried fruit, nuts, and avoid foods like rice, noodles, and instant mixes as they require heat and a lot of precious water to prepare. There are now available quite a few packaged vacuum-sealed meals (usually Indian or Thai curries) that are vegan.

Another consideration for vegans is the inclusion of first-aid kits. There are many pre-packaged first-aid kits on the market, but many of them have products either with animal ingredients or are manufactured by companies that conduct testing on animals. It is better to make your own, using items from safe manufacturers. A list of recommended items are below.

Discuss an evacuation plan with all members of your household and how to notify each other in case of separation. Note that phone and internet communication networks may either be inoperable or overloaded, but establish an out-of-town/state contact person that each person can check in with, or use the same social networking sites. Discuss alternate meet-up places. If you have children, make sure they know their basic personal information should they get separated, know alternate contacts and meeting sites, and role-play with them on what to do and where to go as well as how to get hold of 911 and other contacts.

Your companion animals need special attention and planning. Make sure any licenses are current, and each animal has an ID tag. Consider micro-chips. Keep an updated list of trusted neighbors who could assist your companion animals in case of an emergency. Make sure they are comfortable being inside carriers. Fasten down aquariums and other cages to their tables to prevent them from tipping over. If you evacuate, locate all your animals and keep them with you. Be aware that shelters will only allow service animals. In a large-scale disaster, animal shelters will be set up when possible.

If there is absolutely no way to take your companion animals with you, inform animal rescue workers of your pets’ status: On your front door or in a highly visible window, use chalk, paint or marker to write the number and types of pets in your residence. Include their location in your home and the date that you evacuated. Leave plenty of water in a large, open container that cannot be tipped over. Leave plenty of food in timed feeders to prevent your pet from overeating. Absolutely do *not* tie up your pet in your home. The first chance you can get communications, find out who among neighbors, friends, or rescue workers can get to your place.

The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is never as critical to follow as preparing for a disaster. It is worth it to start now, and even if you cannot afford to get everything at this point get what you can, and continue to build upon your kits, because every little bit will prove to be invaluable should the unexpected happen. And especially for those of us who have others who depend on us, like companion animals, and those who are living as vegans, it is important to place extra consideration to ensure that as many living beings survive as possible.

FIRST-AID KIT (in a small plastic container)

+ First-aid manual
+ Sterile gauze pads of different sizes
+ Adhesive tape
+ Adhesive bandages in several sizes
+ Elastic bandage
+ A splint
+ Antiseptic wipes
+ Soap
+ Antibiotic ointment
+ Antiseptic solution (like hydrogen peroxide)
+ Cold packs/Heat packs (wrap in towel prior to use)
+ Tweezers
+ Sharp scissors
+ Safety pins
+ Disposable gloves

GO-KIT (in a backpack)

+ LED-flashlight
+ First-aid kit (as noted above)
+ Bottled water
+ Dried food like soy jerkies, energy bars, dried fruit, granola, etc.
+ Permanent marker, paper, tape to leave behind notes
+ Whistle
+ Flare or warning light to signal planes/helicopters
+ Multi-tool knife
+ Matches in waterproof container or cigarette lighter
+ Rain poncho
+ Warm hat/gloves
+ Sturdy shoes
+ A change of clothes
+ Emergency Mylar blanket (aka thermal blanket, Space Blanket, first-aid blanket)
+ Extra glasses, contact cases, contact solutions, other vital personal items
+ Prescription medication
+ Travel-size toothpaste and toothbrush
+ Photos of family members/companion animals for ID purposes
+ Copy of health insurance and identification cards
+ List of emergency point-of-contact phone numbers
+ Extra keys
+ Emergency cash in small denominations

COMPANION-ANIMAL GO-KIT (in a shoulder bag)

+ Carrier with blanket (Store with bag)
+ Sturdy leashes and muzzles for dogs.
+ Food, potable water and medicine/supplements for at least one week
+ Non-spill bowls, manual can opener (if using canned food)
+ Plastic bags for sanitation
+ Recent photo of each pet
+ Names and phone numbers of your emergency contact, emergency veterinary hospitals and animal shelters
+ Copy of your pet’s vaccination history and any medical problems
+ Favorite toy
+ A pillowcase may be a good emergency transport for cats and other small animals

HOME KIT (in large plastic tub)

+ Water*
+ Food (as noted above)
+ Manual can-opener
+ First-aid kit (as noted above)
+ Crowbar (doors that are shut may be jammed)
+ Dust-masks
+ Non-leather heavy-duty work gloves
+ Hand-powered radio
+ Flashlight/batteries
+ Plastic sheeting/duct-tape to cover up broken windows
+ Bucket/heavy plastic bags for sanitation (toilets may not function)
+ Personal hygiene items including toilet paper, feminine supplies, hand sanitizer and soap
+ Rope/twine
+ Plastic tarps
+ A copy of important documents & phone numbers
+ Tools; hammer, nails, staple gun, hacksaw/pruning saw
+ For children provide comfort food and treats, and games

It would be a good idea to store a crowbar, dust-mask (to filter out drywall, insulation, and other dust shaken loose), sturdy shoes, flashlight, and glasses (if you need corrective vision) next to your bed.

CAR KIT (to supplement Go-Kit)

+ Water*
+ Food (as noted above)
+ Sleeping bag(s)
+ Tent
+ Camping mess kit (forks, spoons, knives, metal pots/cups/plates)
+ Camp stove, or matches/cigarette lighter for building camp-fires
+ Extra blankets
+ Flashlight/batteries
+ First-aid kit (as noted above)
+ Emergency road-side kit (usually includes flares and tools)
+ In-car chargers for cell-phones and other communication devices
+ CB Radio
+ Change of clothes
+ Warm hat/gloves

*A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT WATER:

In a disaster, water supplies may be cut off or contaminated. Store enough water for everyone in your family to last for at least 3 days. Store one gallon of water per person, per day. Three gallons per person per day will give you enough to drink and for limited cooking and personal hygiene. Remember to plan for your companion animals.

If you store tap water:
Tap water from a municipal water system can be safely stored without additional treatment. Store water in food grade plastic containers, such as clean 2-liter soft drink bottles. Heavy duty, reusable plastic water containers are also available at sporting goods stores. Empty milk bottles are not recommended because their lids do not seal well and bottles may develop leaks. Label and store in a cool, dark place. Replace water at least once every six months.

If you buy commercially bottled “spring” or “drinking” water:
Keep water in its original container, and don’t re-store a bottle once it’s been opened. Store in a cool, dark place. If bottles are not marked with the manufacturer’s expiration date, label with the date and replace bottles at least once per year.

Treating water after a disaster:
If you run out of stored drinking water, strain and treat water from your water heater or the toilet reservoir tank (except if you use toilet tank cleaners). Swimming pool or spa water should not be consumed but you can use it for flushing toilets or washing.

Treatment process:
Strain any large particles of dirt by pouring the water through layers of paper towels or clean cloth. Next, purify the water one of two ways:
Boil – bring to a rolling boil and maintain for 3-5 minutes. After the water cools, pour it back and forth between two clean containers to add back oxygen; this will improve its taste.
Disinfect – If the water is clear, add 8 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of bleach per gallon of water. If it is cloudy, add 16 drops (1/4 teaspoon) per gallon. Make sure you are using regular bleach— 5.25% percent sodium hypochlorite— rather than the “ultra” or “color safe” bleaches. Shake or stir, then let stand 30 minutes. A slight chlorine taste and smell is normal.

A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT EARTHQUAKES:
In an earthquake, since it happens suddenly and without warning, it is important to know what to do. It is a myth that the safest place is under a doorway; in modern structures, the doorway is no stronger than the rest of the building–in fact, you’re likely to get injured from doors swinging wildly, and if it’s a public building, people may shove past you to hurry through. Instead, drop, get under cover, and hold on. Many people make the mistake of standing, running, or trying to keep furniture from falling over—all major earthquake no-nos. When an earthquake strikes, don’t run or try to escape. Search for cover as close to you as possible; if you’re in bed, stay curled up and protect your head with a pillow. If you’re driving, pull over to the side when it’s safe, and stay off bridges and going underneath overpasses.

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The “Find of a Lifetime,” Killed for “Research”

In The "Find of a Lifetime," Killed for "Research" on April 14, 2013 at 6:37 pm

As reported a few days ago, scientists in South Sudan have discovered an entirely new bat, so-called a “panda bat” because of the unusual black and white markings. Such a discovery was so rare that the bat was determined to be in an entirely new genus (a step up from species). Researchers from Bucknell University in Pennsylvania, the Smithsonian Institution and the Islamic University in Uganda showcased the bat, Niumbaha superba, in the journal Zookeys. Niumbaha means ‘rare’ or ‘unusual’ in Zande, the language of the Azande people in Western Equatoria State, where the bat was captured. Bucknell Associate Professor of Biology DeeAnn Reeder, who made the discovery, said it was the “find of a lifetime.”

Unfortunately, instead of documenting the discovery with photographs and releasing the bat back into the wild, the rare creature was killed and is being kept as a specimen in the Smithsonian. And according to bat conservationists, the news about how the bat was ultimately handled and killed was covered up.

The new bat, Niumbaha superba, shown both alive and dead

The new bat, Niumbaha superba, shown both alive and dead

The researchers contend that their procedures and practices conform to the guidelines of the American Veterinary Medical Association, American Society of Mammalogists, and the Internal Animal Care and Use Committee (IACUC) at Bucknell University. However, such guidelines provide rudimentary and minimal standards that promote the view that the ends justify the means, and violations of those standards brings almost no enforcement. Answering to charges of mishandling the bat, scientists argue “The way the bat is being handled does not hurt the bat. Holding back the wings prevents the bat from hurting itself while being held. This is a standard (and temporary) way to hold a bat for things like photos and/or to study certain characteristics of bats.”

However, according to the Bat World Sanctuary, “Researchers scruff bats to get photographs and to avoid being bitten. It has nothing whatsoever to do with the safety of the bat. Any bat care professional can tell you that when bats are held in a manner that is *comfortable* to them, they rarely attempt to bite and photos are easily obtained.”

The Smithsonian is the same institution that captured and allowed 40 critically endangered Virginia big-eared bats to slowly die over a period of months because they would not use standard husbandry protocols for bats or listen to advice that could have saved the bats.

It is also noteworthy that in the published paper announcing the new bat genus, despite the meticulous measurements made and of the comparisons to other bat genera, the gender was not disclosed. One can reasonably presume a 50% chance the  bat was female, immediately raising concerns that with a genus of bat so rare–such that sightings are indeed once in a lifetime–the killing of this bat means she can’t reproduce and the risk of extinction is even higher.

Obtaining knowledge about the world we are inhabiting should include the knowledge about affording the respect all animals deserve. We don’t have to kill living beings to learn about them.

Conservation efforts being made by Bat World Sanctuary, Bat Conservation International as well as other groups to save and protect bats. Please support their work, share this post, and speak out against cruelty and killing of all wildlife.

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An Open Letter to Those Who “Only Eat ‘Humane’ Animal Products”

In An Open Letter to Those Who “Only Eat ‘Humane’ Animal Products” on August 29, 2012 at 5:50 pm

This letter is to those of you who, after being presented with the idea about possibly being vegan, respond with “I eat only ‘humane/free-range/organic/sustainable’ meat/eggs/dairy.” I’m glad to see that you are concerned about animals enough to have changed the way you eat. After being presented with the incontrovertible evidence of the cruelty behind factory farms you recognized there is a problem and you’ve decided to act and change your behaviors with regard to the products you buy. Most people say that they care about animals, but the hardest step is for people to recognize and acknowledge how their own behaviors contribute to animal suffering and to be motivated enough to align their actions with their avowed principles. It’s great that you’ve been motivated enough to address those concerns in your own life.

Since you say that those are the only animal products you consume, I can therefore assume that you are diligent and consistent with your choice. I assume when you’re traveling, you don’t opt for the convenience of fast-food. When you go to restaurants or anyplace else that offers food prepared for you, I am sure you are asking questions about their ingredients. When you get coffee, I am sure you are asking the barista where the milk comes from, or about the eggs in the pastries. Doubtless you bring your own food to cookout events and parties. When you go grocery shopping, I’m sure you’re thoroughly reading the labels and are avoiding all the baked, frozen, canned, packaged, processed and prepared foods that do not have “free-range” and “organic” animal products listed — which end up being the vast majority of the products on the shelves.

You probably have realized that by asking as many questions as you are, by reading as many labels as you are, and avoiding as many foods that are available, you are eating in a manner similar to a vegan, since the vast majority of the food products offered that are animal-derived or contain animal products do not proclaim to be “humane,” “free-range,” “grass-fed,” etc.

With an effort to act consistently on your principles, and with such a concern about how animals are treated, I can assume you have taken a look at what those labels really mean.

Doubtless you have investigated the labeling standards set by various certification programs (such as Humane Farm Animal Care , whose “Certified Humane Raised and Handled” labeling standards are lauded to be the “Gold Standard” of such programs), and have noticed exceptions and loopholes (such as HFAC’s Standards for Chickens “Section G: Free-Range: The Animal Care Standards for Chickens Used in Broiler Production do not require that chickens have access to range.” Or that federal requirements for “free-range” allows that chickens are merely not kept in individual cages, but are otherwise kept in the same crowded and unsanitary intensive housing situations as “battery-cage” chickens) and noticed little assurance that such labels are backed up by credible outside monitoring (for instance, HFAC requires an inspection only once a year and is heavily reliant on forms and reports that the farmers fill out with no assurance that the farmers are not providing inaccurate, incomplete, or misleading information).

I’m sure you’ve seen that the labeling standards state guidelines for what suffering is actually “acceptable” because animals are bred to grow extremely fast, and produce milk or eggs at a much more intensive level than nature intended, and thus are susceptible to genetic and health problems such as lameness, leg deformities, skeletal disorders, diseases, infections, inflammations, heart failure, and much more.

And surely you’ve noticed that there are guidelines for “acceptable” conditions that arises from the unnatural confinement of large numbers of animals (such as what is considered “acceptable” levels of concentrated ammonia in the air, and admissions such as “In cage-free housing systems of laying hens, there is a risk of outbreaks of cannibalism… In flocks that are susceptible to outbreaks of cannibalism, the beaks of hens may be trimmed at 10 days of age or younger as a preventive measure,” from HFAC Standards for Egg Laying Hens).

And you probably have seen or heard news about how the USDA’s Process Verified Program came under fire by the Animal Welfare Institute (AWI) for misleading the public by improperly labeling meat as “humanely raised.” You likely saw how the AWI investigative report stated that this meat comes from animals on factory farms who suffer the same standard meat industry practices as other farmed animals, which include, but aren’t limited to, the use of battery cages and gestation crates, and searing off the beaks of baby birds, dehorning, and castration, all without painkillers.

With such a concern about the welfare of animals, I’m sure you’ve noticed that even on the smallest family-run farm that sells to local consumers (a precious few, as most “family” farms nowadays are contracted out to big-name agricultural companies), what are considered standard agricultural practices would bring about criminal charges, let alone be considered humane, if they were done to a dog or cat.

You likely have realized that “free-range,” “cage-free,” and “organic” eggs are laid by chickens from hatcheries that kill 50% of all chicks hatched, as male chicks are considered economically useless. You already noticed that even the chickens being provided for the “backyard” movement come from the same hatcheries.

You already know that livestock auctions often serve as the way stations between farms and slaughterhouses for millions of cows, pigs, chickens, goats, sheep and other animals who are raised, bought and sold for slaughter, and that many of the “humanely raised” animals end up here. And you already know that workers at these auctions are gratuitously unconcerned about these animals and regularly abuse them. You likely saw CNN’s report on how an undercover investigation at a livestock auction confirmed that workers throw, beat, stomp on and kick animals (including the “humanely-raised” ones) in the face and body; that they grab, drag, and throw animals by their heads, necks, ears, horns, tails, and legs; that they crowd animals into small pens, forcing animals to stand on and even trample each other; and that they kick, push, and drag sick, injured, and dying animals into transport trucks to be sold and slaughtered for human consumption.

And you already know that the vast majority of the animals raised on “family,” “sustainable,” “grass-fed,” and “free-range” farms are tightly crammed into transport trucks which sometimes travel for hundreds of miles, without food or water, exposed to the extremes of weather – and are occasionally killed in accidents along the way – destined for the very same slaughterhouses that factory farm animals go to. You already know that given the speed at which slaughterhouse workers are forced to work, many of these “humanely raised” animals are not effectively killed and are often still partially or fully conscious when the process of skinning, gutting, and dismembering begins.

And you’ve realized that even on the small “free-range” farms where they do their own slaughter, the so-called “humane” method of slitting throats mean animals slowly suffocate on their own blood and writhe around in pain until they die. You have likely realized that it is a redefinition of what it means to be “humane” when it can be used to describe the raising of animals, no matter how gentle the hand, for an abbreviated life met by a violent death.

So then you likely know that such labels are essentially meaningless and are merely a way to cover up inhumane practices with a “feel-good” veneer to placate consumer guilt and encourage them to buy such labeled products. You may have noticed that even according to former animal farmers, “there is no such thing as humane animal products,” and “what a mistake it is to believe there is anything called “humane” slaughter. Animals have families and feelings, and to think that kindness before killing them is an answer is totally wrong.”

And in accordance with your level of consistency and willingness to stand up for your principles, I’m sure you’ve given up purchasing other products that use animals, such as leather and wool, as those industries don’t even bother pretending that the animals raised for those products are in accordance to “humane” labeling standards. And you’ve given up supporting other companies and organizations that use animals, such as circuses, who regularly violate the meager animal welfare laws currently in place.

After such thorough examination that you’ve undertaken to examine the issues surrounding the use of animals as commodities, it likely has lead you to the realization that the truly humane approach is to not confine, use, and kill animals for human purpose. You may then already realize that your principles and convictions, and your willingness to act consistently on them, aligns that of being vegan. Welcome.

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